The Denver Gazette

Lucile’s satisfies Colorado’s Creole cravings

BY ROBIN INTEMANN JEFF KEARNEY, SPECIAL TO THE DENVER GAZETTE The Denver Gazette

Walking into Lucile’s Creole Café isn’t quite like being in New Orleans, but it’s close, considering you’re in the Mile High City.

This is a popular spot for brunch, so we anticipated a long wait. However, we got lucky and were seated well before hunger pangs became audible. Still, it’s a good idea to be prepared to not immediately get a table. Whatever the possible delay, the food and service make it worthwhile.

We started with an order of beignets ($6.95 for an order of four; a single beignet is $2.25. These Big Easy mainstays are similar to doughnuts except they’re square and have no holes. They’re puffy and dusted with powdered sugar. Although the plate they arrived on was warm, something I considered a positive sign, the beignets were, frankly, dense. I expected something light and airy. Those adjectives were better applied to the warm, freshly made biscuits that come with most entrees.

The two dishes not to be missed are shrimp and grits ($14.95) and gumbo ($10.95 for a bowl/$6.95 for a cup). A choice of plain, cheesy or jalapeno cheese grits is available. We opted for the latter, although I expected something spicier. Still, the thick cornmeal porridge-like side had a subtle piquancy that didn’t overwhelm and complemented the diced pieces of andouille sausage and red peppers. The shrimp was tender and rich. Somehow the plating enhanced the flavor combination, since all of the ingredients were impressively arrayed.

I always knew gumbo was popular in Louisiana, but I didn’t realize it’s the official state cuisine. The menu says it’s made from “ingredients selected daily.” Our server said in all the time she’s been at the restaurant,

they haven’t changed. So you can expect sausage, okra and chicken in rich gravy made from a dark brown roux. White rice is served in the bowl. The accompanying flaky buttermilk biscuit was served with homemade strawberry and rhubarb jam.

Several of the egg entrees are variations on Benedicts. The Eggs Sardou ($14.95) features grits flanked by creamed spinach in a buttery/cheesy sauce with two poached eggs capped with smooth, decadent Hollandaise sauce and a single shrimp adorning each egg.

Similar in presentation are the Eggs Pontchartrain ($15.50). Two poached eggs covered with béarnaise sauce sit atop lightly fried trout on a creamy bed of grits ($1.40 extra for cheesy ones). The sauce is tangy, buttery and flecked with tarragon.

For obvious reasons, the pain perdu ($14.35) does not come with a biscuit. Three thick slices of a baguette are dipped in an egg custard batter before hitting the cooktop. A choice of eggs and an array of fresh fruit complete the meal. Sweet praline syrup is here for more than decoration.

Lucile’s has several locations in Denver and northern Colorado. The Ogden Street site is large, but not massive. The decor features posters of New Orleans landmarks, band instruments and assorted related bric-a-brac.

I look forward to returning to Lucile’s. If I happen to be alone, I’ll have only a cup of gumbo along with the shrimp and grits. Based on experience, though, it’ll be more fun to dine here with friends.

LIFE

en-us

2022-05-27T07:00:00.0000000Z

2022-05-27T07:00:00.0000000Z

https://daily.denvergazette.com/article/282260964086333

The Gazette, Colorado Springs